A Dremel rotary tool are very versatile. It can cut, drill, grind, sand and polish various types of material. For someone who has never used one before, this may be confusing.
How to Change Bits On A Dremel Tool
Understanding Dremel Rotary Tools
First of all, there is different bits that need to be changed out propery. It seems easy enough because it just spins at the end of spindle in the front. However, it’s not so simple.
There are no lever or threading on shaft. You have to do it right. Don’t mess up and force anything.
That will ruin your collet. Also, don’t skip any of these steps. Otherwise, you’ll throw your bit off at high speeds which won’t be good either.
Proper Bit Installation Steps
To begin, you need to press the spindle lock button which prevents shaft of motor from turning. If the motor shaft turn without being locked then the collet nut won’t cinch down on bit properly. It will slip out.
Press and hold that spindle lock button with your thumb. That will hold shaft so you can tighten the nut. Hold it until it’s completely tightened.
Don’t let go prematureley.
Using the Correct Wrench
Secondly, what’s that right wrench? Most kit come with a little two headed wrench.
One end fit onto the collet nut and the other fits into motor housing during maintenance. When the right end is slide onto triangular collet nut, it should be snug. If it isn’t you have wrong end.
Pliers are not used, they will round the corner of the nut. Once rounded, the nut becomes useless. So now you must purchase a new nut and assembly.
Use wrench supplied for this purpose. To change out shaft (old bit), you take your wrench and turn it counter-clockwise. Typically it require a full turn or maybe two.
Securing Bits in the Collet
That will open jaws of collet and let bit slide out. Then insert the new shaft into holder. Don’t push the shaft all the way in.
The shoulder should seat against those jaw. Push it in until it stops. No need to try and jam it.
The right length are set by the design. Tighten down the nut clockwise. Make it snug, but don’t get too tight.
After all, you’re just compressing steel jaw. Too much force isn’t needed. A firm half turn after resisting should of been enough.
Mandrel vs Chuck Style Bits
Others likes their chuck style. You put this inside an adapter and then use the chuck the same as you do with your drill. So they’re a bit of a pain.
They’re slower than mandrel bits. They add length to tool. So you lose some accuracy there.
But they give you access to regular drill bit. This can be nice if you want to bang something together around house quickly. For working more closely with metal or wood they aren’t quite as good.
Again, the best way to do this is to just stick with the mandrel style of bits. Once you change out the bit, go check it. Pull on it gently.
Checking for Bit Wobble
It does not move. Grab it in your hand and spin it. The bit run true.
There is no wiggle. Wrong. Bit wasn’t seated correctly.
Or possibly you have a bad collet. Don’t think that a wobble bit isn’t dangerous when spinning at 30,000 rpm. Your bit may break off, tear up your cut.
Once you get the bit spinning smooth then it’s time to do some work. Over time it just gets easier and quicker changing out your bits. Soon it’s like another part of you.
Get going on your project.