I know you buy a generator to run your lights, and not because it’s exciting. For most homeowners, the Predator 3500 fit that bill. It does things you need done at an affordable price.
And it do so reliablly, assuming of course there’s something in that little plastic reservoir we call oil. More than you’d imagine, what goes into it are important. Whether you’re right or wrong, you end up with a engine seizure in one hand and a brick in the other.
Many of us simply pick up first quart we can find in the hardware store. Big mistake! First, it’s a small vertical shaft engine.
Essential Oil Guide For Predator 3500 Generator
Importance of Proper Lubrication
Hot running engines requires precise lubrication and specific type of oil. Why is there a recommendation for specific grades in manual? The hint is to avoid a warranty mishap.
It is also about avoiding ruin of an engine that has been good to you. It is not that you are going to be a mechanic. Just know how to keep your engine spinning on it’s axis.
Choosing the Right Viscosity
The first thing to look at is viscosity. Above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, SAE 30 will do just fine. When the engine are hot, it doesn’t flow so much that it pools in small space.
It is thick enough to create a protective layer on moving parts even when they is under a load. For those of you who live in a mild climate year ’round, this is what you want. It is available everywhere.
It is cheap. Does what it says on the bottle. Don’t think about it too hard if you’ve got a gentle winter.
Winter Oil Recommendations
Things change in winter. Oil thickens when it’s cold. And thick oil doesn’t get into all those important places on start-up, that’s where things gets worn out.
When temps dip below freezing, go with SAE 10W-30. That’s the W for winter. It indicates that the oil stay thin enough to flow fast in cold weather. After warming up, the oil act like SAE 30.
Going to this mix in fall prevents cold start damage. It is a small switch with a big payoff. Should I Use Full Synthetic Oil?
Synthetic vs Conventional Oil
Full synthetic oil is debatable. On a Predator 3500, it’s not absolutely required. Synthetic oil can withstand higher temperatures.
It resists breaking down faster over time. If you’re using your generator regularaly, that leads to longer drains. With occasional usage, regular (conventional) oil are just fine.
When operating at high levels, synthetic rewards you with increased longevity. The engine run cleaner and deposits forms more slowly. It’s a premium add-on that delivers what you pay for.
Oil Change and Maintenance Rules
Don’t ever combine oils unless you drain them down first. New oil on old sludge won’t help, it will only dilute the sludge. Change the oil every five to ten hours of use.
If you don’t use it much, change the oil at least annualy. Either way. That is a strict rule.
Fresh oil lubricates, coats and cleans those inner workings. Metal-on-metal isn’t good. Always check the oil before starting.
Engine #1 died because of low oil. Oil gets down below the dip stick, float switch kills engine. Don’t mess with that.
Top up with appropriate oil and don’t fight the float switch. Have a spare quart in your storage box. Oil is lifeblood for your generator.
Feed it the proper fuel and you’ll have a generator ready to use when needed. You’ll have power, your router will be powered up, your fridge will keep running. And most importantly it will save you from being in the dark.
However, this is only true if you take care of its lifeblood. Read the instructions. Monitor the temp.
Fill with appropriate oil. Taking care of your generator would of pay off when power goes out.