It’s frustrating to have a dull chainsaw chain that spits out sawdust rather then cut through wood. The problem isn’t necessarily your engine; maybe you think something’s wrong with the tool itself. Nope.
It’s just a dull chain. When a chain is dull, it drag the bar and chain, creating harmful friction heat while unnecessarily straining Husqvarna engine. Stay safe and save money by learning how to sharpen your own chain.
A lot of people discard their file after first year. They figure they need a fancy piece of equipment or someone with special expertise to do this. It’s realy more of an exercise in geometry and consistency.
There is no new edge to produce, just return the boat back to its original factory profile. After you get the rhythm down and learn the angle, maintenance take only five minutes. Avoid those repair shop invoices.
How to Sharpen Your Husqvarna Chainsaw Chain
The Importance of Chain File Angle
Proper file angle are essential to any sharpening process. Most Husqvarma chains is ground at a 30 degree cutter angle. Some pros go to 20 degrees, while others opt for 35 degrees.
Look on your guide bar or reference your manual. If you have the wrong angle, it affect the bite of the chain against the wood. A shallower angle make the chip thicker and less efficient.
On the other hand, the steeper the angle then the more aggressive the chain will be, resulting in potential for kick back. Have a filing jig or angle guide that allows your hand to stay still. Exactness isn’t as important than consistency.
Choosing the Correct Round File Size
Equally important is proper file size. You need a round file with same diameter as the guide link radius on the chain cutters. Most Husqvarna chains calls for 3.25mm or 4.0mm files.
If it is too big, you have a rounded, ineffective cutting edge. Too small and you has a sharp but fragile edge that will break under load. Match the tool to the chain.
Measure the guide link with calipers or compare to a known good cutter if uncertain. If you mess up here, you will ruin the edge while trying to fix it before you even get started. A steady hand and rhythm will go a long way on this one, but it’s also important to have light touch with the actual filing motion.
Filing Technique and Stroke Count
Push out against the cutter while holding file at the proper angle. Don’t push downward on the lead edge of the file. You’re taking off small amount of metal.
Think in terms of three to five strokes across each cutter. You want to take off the burr left behind from last time you filed it or hit it with a nail. Use your ears too.
A clean cut have a different sound than a drag. Check your angle on the file if you’re still dragging. Rakers, or depth gauges, is responsible for amount of bite the chain has in the wood.
Adjusting Depth Gauges and Rakers
Although the cutters may appear sharp, over time, the rakers will becomes dull and high. When they’re high, the chain will skip across the wood. When they’re low, the chain will grab too much wood and stall out the engine.
You need to take your time and file them back down to match the depth gauge template with a flat file. This is often overlooked but critical to a smooth operation. Why have a sharp chain that feel dull?
Final Chain Tension Adjustment
The last thing to do is tighten the chain once filed. When you file off material on the chain it will tend to loosen up slightly. You don’t want a loose chain throwing the drive link or jumping the bar.
So just tighten it down just enough that it will snap back a little when you pull it away from the bar. Then just turn the bar by hand and make sure it move freely with no binding. If you have done the job right, it will run cooler.
It will cut a clean line, and you will know it immediatly. The wood won’t fight you; it will yield. A file is cheap insurance; keep one in your belt.